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Well this is almost certainly going to be the most unusual place from which I update my blog! I’m currently camped next to the E-74 motorway … about 95km from Belgrade – and have somehow managed to get free wifi from a phantom motel!
Anyways…a little bit about my day. When I left my hillside camping spot this morning, my speedo read 5990km. It now reads 6190.6km. That’s a new distance record for me of 200.6km; one which I am going to struggle to beat on this trip – with the days getting shorter, and the weather in Western Europe sounding rather inclement.
Still, I’m pretty happy with how the day has gone; and as with all the other Balkan countries, the Serbians I have met at the various service stations have been incredibly polite and friendly. The country is also pretty stunning; both sides of the motorway being flanked by mountains and farmland with what look like wattle and daub storehouses. So yes, all in all, I’m glad I ponied up and shelled out on a new wheel…for if I hadn’t, I’d have blazed past all of these experiences in a train carriage!
Right…I’ve rambled on for far too long already. But I’ll leave you all with a bit of food for thought;
My food intake to cover the 200km…
-2 bananas
-500grams of pasta
-6 stock cubes
-200grams of Choc spread
-1 bottle of coke
-12 liters of water
It’s fair to say that bikes are a pretty efficient form of transport! If you haven’t done so for a while, dust off your bike and go and surprise yourself. Cars are over-rated anyway :-)

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As I contemplate the next phase of my ride from our hostel in Istanbul, I can’t help but think back to those mentally shattering days at the very start of my journey. Crossing the English Channel was daunting. But picking up a knee injury the very next day was absolutely crushing. All of my dreams of seeing the vast open landscapes of Central Asia and China, & immersing myself in their cultures…seemingly gone.

The next phase of my ride;

I’ve come a long way since those troubling days – both in terms of distance covered, as well as mindset. My speedo currently reads 5,290km. Within 65 days or so – with good luck and beurocracy on my side – I will have added another 5,000 km to that total.


View my route from Istanbul to China on a larger map

My journey really will be taking me into the unknown; Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgysztan…China! All of these places have long captivated me – both in terms of their historical legacy of being the lands over which Marco Polo trod, as well as the sheer grandeur of the landscapes in which they encompass.

I have given myself more than a month of contingency to cover mechanical problems, inclement weather (for if it gets really gnarly!) & also to cover the ever-present issue of governmental beurocracy!!! If all goes to plan, I’ll be in China before Christmas — and then it’ll be a headlong rush to the eastern coast so I can escape before my visa runs out (I am very much hoping i’ll be able to extend my visa though as I’m sure China is going to be a magical place).

Keep a track of my progress;

If you would like to keep a track of how I am progressing as winter closes in, check my where am I page, and also sign up for my blog post notification service (every time I post an article on my website, you get an email with details about it…)

Donate;

& as much as this is a personal adventure/endeavour, I really hope it’ll also be a catalyst for generating funding for the charities I am supporting. I’m going to be cycling/sleeping in temperatures of -20 and possibly beyond…it’s going to be tough, tiring and lonely. Your donations to my chosen charities mean a huge amount to me…because I know just how much of an impact they’ll make.

I will also be updating my Twitter account whenever I get mobile phone reception. To follow me, click here

Finally, thanks for following my progress to this point,
Laurence

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Having spent our previous two nights on the roof of the local cemetry, Kez and I decided it was high-time we joined normal society. We therefore had every intention of going to our festival campsite a day early. This would also save us from having to get up at 5:30am as was now necessary given our rooftop camping spot (such campsites – though beautiful at night – are very exposed during the daytime). & so it was that we made our way down to our usual beach side location…

I guess we should have expected it to be an unusually good day. Leaving from our rooftop campsite at the unholy hour of 5:30am ensured we had the beach all to ourselves. Rather than take advantage of a private beach, both Kez and I fell into deep sleeps. When we awoke a fair while later, there was a trail of ants between us both, leading all the way to yet another food parcel (yes, our old Croatian friend had passed through yet again!).

But this wasn’t a day of food parcel deliveries alone. By early afternoon, we had a clutch of English women sunbathing/recovering in front of us. They were clearly women of means, for they had splashed out on renting sun loungers (I can’t remember the last time we treated ourselves to anything other than extra food!). & to our good fortune, they were also interested in finding out more about the waifs and strays that were sharing their part of the beach!

As it turned out, Suzanne (second from right in the picture) has not only been a Guatemalan cycle tour guide; she’s also completed an ironwoman. When I heard this, I was already thinking of her being potential tandem partner material! & amazingly, she is now looking to come and join me in India. (Hauling a tandem on my own through France often seemed like a fruitless endeavour…but having the opportunity to share the travel experience with absolute strangers makes it all worth while)

Now at this point, I’d have been more than happy with having just met a group of people that were interested in the ride. But as was quite clearly the case, these were no ordinary girls. Before the afternoon was out, Kez and I were on our way back to their apartment block – tandem in tow – looking forward to the prospect of an evening spent in good company, and two spare beds for the night.

At their apartment block, the landlady allowed us to use the washing machine (such a welcome treat!!) – where we then got chatting to an English guy working for Visa. In many ways, he was an older version of me. Like me, he has done away with as many possessions as possible (they only ever seem to add worry anyway, and they stop us being footloose!). But he has gone a few stages further than me. He made up what sounded like a rather ambitious wish-list of things to do before he gets to 40. Unlike most people that make up such lists, he is actually making them happen. At number 3 and 2 on his list were to write a book, and to climb to basecamp of Everest. He has done both of those.

& number one on his list – to visit space! Now of course, his astronaut opportunities are never going to materialise…but he is going to do the next best thing. He will be visiting a Russian airbase near Moscow, where a Mig 31 will take him to 65,000 feet – the very edge of space. Pretty incredible – and a reminder for me that pretty much anything is possible, just as long as the desire and self-belief are there.

One last bit of good fortune…

The rest of our welcome evening away from wild camping was spent having dinner and drinks with Suzy, Lucy, Nikki & Andrea – along with a DJ from the Electric Elephant music festival. Unfortunately, the photos from that evening didn’t save properly on my camera (for whatever reason) – but the memories will certainly persist. & how glad we were to have a bed for the night…not only for the comfort, but also because a crashing electrical storm came rolling through in the early hours; one so wild and foul that we’d probably have spent the night hiding in the campite toilets or such like.

So yes, in short – thank you girls. A most unexpected treat. I shall definitely look forward to catching up with you all back in the UK – and of course cycling with Suzy in India. & they’ve also promised me some inspiring/captivating books, which is truly music to my ears given that I am scraping the very bottom of my library barrel!
 

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At 9pm last night, we were still saying goodbye to the Brzic family in Zadar. With the sun having already set, we knew the ride to Petrcane would be a little bit fraught (my Petzl headtorch also doubles as my bikes headlight. Given that I can barely light my way to the toilet at night, I wasn’t at all surprised by how useless it turned out to be on that night ride!)

We had already clocked our campsite earlier in the day when we first visited Petrcane in Zvone’s car. At night however, the camping proposition was far less alluring! Our campsite was predictable; a cemetry. However, the ground around the perimeter was gnarled and jagged…and there didn’t seem to be much of an option in the cemetry either. The only possibility was a rather weird and eerie shed on the northern perimeter. Filled with rat droppings, spare tyres, shoes and clothes – this was the kind of place where horror stories are born.

Despite all of the places I’ve slept thus far, even I didn’t fancy kipping in such a place. Kez certainly wasn’t game. With the pall of darkness shrouding the landscape, we had to get creative….
& so it was that we ended up sleeping on the roof of the shed. Take a look at the video below to see the rather nice view that we had this morning…

 

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We spent much of yesterday enjoying the relaxed and sedate town of Rovanjska. Nothing much seemed to be happening, with just a few families and kids ambling to and from the quayside. On that basis, we expected the night to be pretty quiet too…

How wrong we were! The ‘Party Band Draganac’ were in town. Dressed in tight red trousers and white shirts, the ‘band’ certainly stood out. Much like their clothing, the music also stood out – though this was largely because it sounded like an unholy fusion of a student karaoke bar, and the ‘on hold’ music that unimaginative call centres seem to give us!

I guess they were playing in the right town. For this was a captive market. There were no other bars…but there were masses of people all dressed up and ready for a night out! Unfortunately, our ‘stealth camping’ spot – which had seemed ideal during the day – was basically at the confluence of the rivers of people descending upon the bar. So at 10pm,  we upped sticks and went looking for a place to stay!

Take a look at the video below to see where we eventually ended up. It involved negotiating a wire fence, and waiting 15 minutes for a window of opportunity to present itself where we could literally spring up the hill to the seclusion of the shadows at the top.
 

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The road we are currently following is undoubtedly one of the best of my ride so far. The climbs are gradual, as are the descents…and the views are, without exception, amazing.

Take a look at the pictures above to see the places we’ve passed (and the dive boards we’ve jumped from!0…

& when you’re done looking at those, take a look at the video below. It was taken at ‘Marko’s Caffe Barr’ in Baric Draga, Croatia. As we covered Italy so quickly, we can now afford to spent lots of time in the nicest of places. This was just such a place, and we duly spent the afternoon diving off the platform, playing cards and just enjoying the opportunity to relax.

When it came to sleeping, we didn’t realise until we were settled in our camp spot that the nice concrete platform that formed our bed was in fact the top of the cess pit. Nevertheless, we had a fine nights sleep, with a picture postcard view…and when the sun broke through in the morning, we were able to walk just a few metres before hitting the azure blue of our Adriatic swimming pool…
 

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As I’m sure is the case for many other cycle tourers…what looks to be a particular type of road on a 1:1,000,000 scale map is often very different from the reality! Having such low resolution maps has certainly added some spice to my journey thus far…and once again, the map threw up a curve ball!

We probably could have stayed in Senj last night – a nice little coastal town. But we thought we could do better! We had visions of a beach bar, azure blue sea and a nice breeze. By 7:30pm, we were happy for anything that resembled a coastline (the road south from Senj goes inland and climbs fairly consistently for a good 15km). By 8:30pm, we were happy with anywhere that wasn’t craggy and that had a breeze.

By 8:45pm, we were camped near to a mountain, had very little breeze, and were pretty sweaty to boot! Pretty though the location was…I was soon desperate for the sea – particularly because wave after wave of midges concertedly destroyed my effort to sleep under the stars!

Take a look at the video to see where we stayed (as usual, I’m only able to upload my mobile phone video – so you’ll probably have to turn up your volume to hear the audio)

 

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Just a v.quick update, as we are absolutely shattered after another 150km day in the saddle, prior to making off to the favourite camp site location – a cemetery!!

 

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Fun as it is to have short-term stokers, it’s never really possible to find a good balance and rhythm. So it is with great relief that I have finally been able to welcome my first long-term stoker, Kez Traynor, and report that the match and balance has been brilliant. This isn’t the first time we’ve toured together, along with another good friend (Mike Davis), we rode John O’Groats to Lands End back in 2007.

However, given the distance we have to cover (2,000km to Turkey), and our mode of transport, I am quite sure this ride will be our most challenging ride yet.

So with all that said, how has our first day been? Well, we cycled more than 160km from our hostel in Alessandria, the biggest daily distance of my ride thus far. We’ve been treated to free food and drink courtesy of the kind staff at McDonald’s in Pavia…had many a close shave with numerous lorries…and thoroughly tested out the bike too.

It’s definitely been a shattering day…but we’ve managed to find a fairly nice campspot near to a shopping centre (see picture) and also taken a shower using our 5 gallon water container. I imagine the cctv operators at the shopping centre will have a few laughs when they see two Englishman – with patchwork tans – lathering up outside their shopping complex!

Anyways, mossie net is up, 1/2kg of pasta has been despatched…only one thing left – sleep!!

 

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Since a good chunk of my day is spent cooking or camping…I thought I’d add a little video to give you an idea of the routine…

As usual, these video updates are being taken on my mobile phone – which has a pretty rubbish camera! I hope it’ll give you a fair idea of the camping / cooking side of things (oh, and you can also see my weird but effective tripod mount!)

(For anyone that’s interested – my stove is an MSR Whisperlite, and the tripod is a generic SLR Gorillapod that I got from EBay)

 

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My time in Italy has been quite a refreshing one thus far. After a shattering day in The Alps, I had that most unexpected meal with the Leone family at the summit of the Col De Larche. The day after gave me a 30km downhill ride into southern Italy…where I again met up with the Leone family – and again had dinner at altitude (the top floor of their apartment block).

My time since leaving them has been interesting too – largely because of the frenetic pace at which Italians live their lives…but also because of my determination to stretch my oh-so meager budget!

Take a look at the videos below to see how my day unfolded!

 

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Due to problamatic internet connections this Journal entry published by the team back at ‘Expedition HQ’ in the UK.
 
Laurence giving his observations and thoughts about yet another high class camp site. However, he is looking forward to meeting his mate, Kez, who will be ‘stoking’ for him as they head over to the music festival in Zadar, Croatia.

Laurence will be adding his more detailed comments when he gets a useable internet connection!

 

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I always find that I have the most vivid dreams when I am in one of those deep slumbers that come from being overly tired. With 3 hours sleep from the night at the steelworks, little more from my troubled night spent in the farmers field, and a combined 220km of cycling in my pocket, I was definitely overly tired.

Now if it were any other day, I’d have pitched my tent in a normal camping spot (as normal as one can find when trying to stealth camp!). However, this day was an exceptional one. I had been cursed by the scourge of the blackflies. Swarms of these little beasties have greeted me on every day of my trip so far. But today, they were out in truly incredible numbers. You probably know the swarms I am talking about – little swirling clouds of black that always seem to crop up at eye level. Well they were certainly at eye level, and rather than just sporadic and small, they were absolutely everywhere!

With it also being a warm day, my thin film of perspiration was acting like the sticky fly paper that dangles in chip shops. I was absolutely covered in the little squirming blighters (I can’t quite cycle fast enough so that they die on imapact; they instead writhe around in their salty baths waiting for the inevitable swipe of the hand!).

So with this relentless aerial bombardment continuing throughout the day, I decided that I would definitely treat myself to some sort of wash. I therefore had the following options;

  • Pay for a campsite (definitely not an option!!)
  • Ask to camp at a French house, and hope a shower is offered (given my past troubles in asking to camp in French gardens, this was also off the agenda)
  • Camp near a river (preferred, but would I actually find one?!)
  • Camp at a cemetry (water is guaranteed…but

 
 

Arriving at the cemetry, covered in black flies!


 
 
Trying to get a good nights sleep…and in rolls a thunderstorm!


 
 
The tents getting a real good test!


 
 
Hours later, and i’m still awake…and the storms still rumbling away! Hmm


 
 

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It had all been going so well!

With 90 or so kilometres already in the back pocket, I perhaps should have been happy with my days progress. But it was only 5pm. I was enjoying a rare tailwind, my Ipod was delivering an epic soundtrack, and the French countryside was delivering some of the best cycling roads of the journey so far (grand vistas, with hills that crested long before my energy wained!).

I therefore decided to do a Formula 1 style evening meal. I had my half kilo of 35 cent pasta cooked within 10 minutes of stopping (my MSR Whisperlite gas burner is a vicious creation; it sounds like a rocket, and burns like an Acetyline torch!). Whilst that was cooking, I boiled my water for a rushed coffee, sent my baguette into the abyss, and waved at the motorists that were honking at the rather strange sight unfolding by the roadside. Within 20 minutes, I was underway once more.

Much like War of the Worlds, I was completely oblivious to the wrath that was heading my way. It’s a strange nuance of this part of France; whereas near the northern coast, the changes in the weather are quite pereptible, the weather in this part of the country seems to turn so completely, and with almost no warning. So for two hours, I merrily blazed a trail through the countryside. I ruefully smiled at the numerous camping sites that I passed, feeling quite assured that I’d find a beautiful wild camping spot somewhere that evening.

& then things changed. That most glorious of things – a tailwind – deserted me. The wind began to shift direction, rushing towards me like the tide coming in at the sea. Huge towering gunmetal clouds began to appear on the horizon. I knew a storm was on the way, but I simply didn’t realise how soon it would arrive. I ‘raced’ through the industrial area of a small town, hoping to pop out again in some of the beautiful French countryside that I had enjoyed for much of the day. It didn’t arrive in time. Fingers of lightening began to touch down to my left, and directly ahead of me. I hoped the road would deviate from that which was on my map. It never did turn right.

As seems customary in France, every passably ok place to wild camp was either fenced or barb wired (the ‘right to roam’ in Britain really is a wonderful creation; because it seems to stop landowners from sectioning off huge swathes of the countryside in this way). I also wasn’t too sure how my tent would perform in an electrical storm. Surrounding myself with a metal exoskeleton didn’t feel like the wisest of decisions. Thus, with a very real pressure to find somewhere sheltered to sleep, it’s fair to say I became a little desperate! So with few other options available, I plumped for the ‘Premier Inn’ of the industrial world;

Grim
Home sweet home!!
& there it is...
A room with a view!
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IMG_4062
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Stealth camping...
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Home sweet home...
Barely enough room to sit, let alone sleep...
Really, really grim!
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A very rushed early evening refuel.

 

My thoughts on my ‘accommodation’…

Escaping the storm, and arriving at the steelworks;

Sitting in the ‘bedroom’, listening to the storm;

Having given up on trying to sleep in the shed, I moved outside;

The morning after the night before!!

Cycling away from a very grim place!!


 
 

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In an all too frequent moment of madness, I decided to try and watch the Champions League final, at the expense of trying to find a suitable wild camping spot.

As it turned out, my efforts at watching the final were pretty much thwarted from the get-go…courtesy of ‘rights restrictions’ on BBC Radio 5 Live. The best that I eventually managed was watching the match via Skype, in McDonald’s!! Was it worth it…?? Purely for the fact Manchester United got a beating, no it wasn’t!

But in my fevour to see the match, I completely ignored the suns steady march towards the horizon!  When I eventually made it to my bike, it was getting pretty dark…and so ensued a mad race to find somewhere passably acceptable to camp. You can see my efforts in the videos below…

Part 1;


 
Part 2;


 
Suffice to say, I won’t be sacrificing sleep for a Champions League final any time soon!
 
 

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